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Confessions of a Cathedral Junkie

Submitted by Rebecca Rhoades, January 15, 2009
The Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit, Vilnius, Lithuania


     I confess. I’m obsessed with cathedrals—and churches and mosques and temples and just about any houses of worship. Ironically, I am not religious. I don’t look at churches from a religious viewpoint. To me, they are works of art. Art that I can walk into and touch and photograph. Art that tells about the culture and beliefs of the community in which it stands.

     I admire the talent that went into building these grand edifices, from the stonework of the structure’s towers, domes and buttresses to the brilliant stained-glass windows and the sculptures and murals that decorate the interior walls.
 
     No matter what country I visit, I always end up seeking out local historic places of worship. From Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris to the Metropolitan Cathedral in Mexico City, from the Hagia Sophia in Istanbul to Ibn Tulun Mosque in Cairo, from St. John the Divine Cathedral in New York City to Wat Arun Temple in Bangkok, they’re all marvelous and beautiful in their unique ways. 

     Recently, I visited Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania. Vilnius is also Lithuania’s biggest city, covering about 155 square miles in a country about the size of West Virginia. And with almost two-dozen historic churches in and around its Old Town center (and more than 70 throughout the city), Vilnius is often referred to as the 'City of Churches.' From the gothic St. Nicholas’ Church, the oldest church in Lithuania dating back to 1320, to the French-classical architecture of the Cathedral, one of the country’s national treasures, Vilnius is a church-lover’s paradise. And for five days, I wandered among the city’s treasures.
    
     Just across the Town Hall Square from where I was staying was the Baroque St. Casimir’s Church, (above) founded in 1604 by the Jesuits. Its recently renovated exterior of bright pinks and peaches belies its tumultuous history. In 1812, it was used as a grain store by Napolean’s troops. From 1915–1917, it served as a Protestant temple for the occupying German Army. And during Lithuania’s Soviet occupation, St. Casimir’s was turned into a museum of atheism.

    
     Just outside the borders of the Old Town is the Baroque masterpiece, Sts. Peter and Paul’s Church (above left). The rather plain façade hides a breathtaking interior. Mythical scenes, creatures, flowers, animals and more than 2,000 human figures, all made of white stucco, decorate the walls and ceiling. I found myself drawn to a figure of Death (above right), surrounded by skulls and demons, which stood just to the right of the entrance. Supposedly, criminals were not allowed to enter any further into the nave, and the horrific images were meant to remind them of their sins. And the chandelier, an enormous glass bead and brass creation in the shape of a ship (below), is one of the more unique features I’ve ever seen in a church.

     My favorite church in Vilnius, hands down, however, was the Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit. This Russian Orthodox church stands in a quiet courtyard near the city’s famous Gates of Dawn. Every inch of the interior is covered in rich colors, from the many shades of green, blue, pink and orange on the walls and ceiling to the brilliant, eye-popping green of the massive Baroque iconostatis. There are no pews here. Instead, a glass-topped casket with the well-preserved bodies of three 14th-century saints, Anthony, Ivan and Eustace, occupies the center of the nave. Their presence also makes this church a popular place of pilgrimage for Orthodox Christians.

     These are only a few of the many amazing churches than can be visited in Vilnius. There are so many, in fact, that even though I was there for a week, I didn’t get a chance to see all of them. I guess that means I’ll have to go back someday.

     Readers, I’d love to hear about the houses of worship, from churches to mosques to temples, that you’ve visited while on vacation.   
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About the Author

  • Image Rebecca Rhoades An avid globetrotter, Rebecca L. Rhoades was happy to leave behind a life in medical publishing to indulge her passion for travel as associate editor of AAA Mid-Atlantic’s magazine, AAA World. A...

Comments (4)

Submitted by Kelsey, January 15. 2009 11:48 United States
These are beautiful pictures. There's a mosque in Dearborn, Michigan that startled me with its (unfamiliar to me) beauty and uniqueness for Michigan. I found out later that there is large Muslim population in Dearborn, I was there as a tourist to see the Ford plant. I considered it a private house of worship, and only admired it from the street. But I suppose everything you have seen has been open to people to any (or undefined) faith?
Submitted by Rebecca Rhoades, January 16. 2009 06:29 United States
Thanks for the compliment, Kelsey. As for the mosque in Dearborn, there are two rather important ones that I know of: The American Moslem Society Dearborn Mosque, one of the oldest mosques in the country, and the Islamic Center of America, one of the largest mosques in North America and one of the finest examples of Islamic-inspired architecture. I’m guessing that you probably saw the latter. And you’re right, Dearborn and its surrounding areas are home to one of the largest populations of Muslims in the United States.

I’ve found that most architecturally and religiously significant houses of worship are open to visitors of any faith. If you are unsure of the visitor policy, it never hurts to go inside and ask. Oftentimes, they welcome the opportunity to teach visitors about their faith and answer any questions. It is important, though, to keep a few things in mind: In many mosques, women and men are separated during prayer services, and even if you are just visiting, women may not be allowed beyond certain points. I’ve visited mosques where women weren’t allowed into the main prayer hall, so I had to had over camera duties to my husband. Also, women may be required to wear headscarves and cover their arms. And everyone should remove their shoes before entering a mosque. And no matter whether it’s a church, mosque or temple, be respectful of those worshipping. Don’t take photos of people praying without asking their permission, and if services are being conducted, don’t wander about; stay in the back of the room or come back after services are completed.
Submitted by Jayne Steadman, January 16. 2009 07:42 United States
Beautiful photos. My favourite catherdral is in Durham in the north of England. Not only is the history fascinating but the setting on a hill, in the bend of the river, alongside the castle is wonderful.
Submitted by Nancy Gomulinski, February 10. 2009 20:54
Your pictures were breathtaking! One of the cathedrals I loved on my first visit to England was York Minster Cathedral. What a fascinating church that is. We had a most wonderful tour guide (a local resident of York) and she was so informative about the stained glass windows and the Chapter House was not to be missed. It is so much fun to find the cathedrals and other places of worship that are not the most popular and turn out to be truly gems. I adored St. Chappelle in Paris. Such beauty! Thank you for sharing your beautiful pictures, I would love to see those churches.

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