You can’t beat the Smithsonian museums in Washington for sheer sightseeing pleasure. Where else can you find such a concentrated assemblage of history, art and human endeavor? And they’re all so conveniently located around The Mall. Plus they’re free. This is a no-brainer, folks; when you’re in the Nation’s Capital, you spend an afternoon at the museums.

And that’s just what I did when I was in town recently visiting family. On this trip my destination was the National Museum of American History, which reopened in November 2008 following a 2-year closure for major renovations. The fifth building built for the Smithsonian Institution opened in 1964 as the National Museum of History and Technology before adopting the current name in 1980. In 2002 a Blue Ribbon Commission, after conducting an evaluation of the facility, determined that it was in need of an overhaul.

I used to live in nearby Fairfax County, and my vague recollection of coming here as a youth is one of darkened rooms and heavy wooden cases containing stamps and coins that you examined by pulling out a drawer. It seemed more like a homework assignment than a fun experience. Years and years have gone by since I last paid a visit. The imposing Tennessee marble facade remains; it’s the interior that has undergone an extreme makeover. You walk in to a main entry area filled with natural light, courtesy of a skylight-topped atrium. A cool-looking glass staircase connects the first and second floors. On one wall, reflective panels created an abstract representation of a flag rippling in the breeze. “Artifact walls” display all kinds of objects behind glass. My immediate impression: high-tech city.

Unfortunately I did not get to see the star attraction, the Star-Spangled Banner. Following an 8-year, multi-million dollar restoration, it now resides in a climate-controlled, dimly lit gallery with new panels providing the requisite historical background information. But the long, snaking line of museum goers patiently waiting to see Old Glory was too much for me; I needed to find a restroom instead. I ended up skipping it. I

n fact the hordes of visitors dampened my enthusiasm for what is obviously a very impressive revamped facility. It’s my fault; I went around a holiday, and it seemed like half of D.C. was milling around The Mall with their houseguests. I also wanted to see the perennially popular exhibit of first ladies’ gowns, but again the line was so daunting I gave up.  

Here’s what I did see before the unrelenting crowds got on my nerves to the point that I left for the relative peace of the Smithsonian Castle building and a rejuvenating cup of coffee. I ducked into Julia Child’s Kitchen (which she donated to the museum), where videos featuring her distinctive high-pitched warble of a voice provided an aural backdrop to the appliances, cookbooks and array of knives on display.

I then took a quick spin through the AAA exhibit America on the Move, which surveys the nation’s transportation developments from 1876 to the present. Wandering through the rooms of vintage automobiles, trains and a myriad other meticulously preserved pieces of machinery was a bit overwhelming, so I cooled my heels for a few minutes inside a streetcar (one of the few exhibits where touching and sitting was permissible).

Emboldened by these successes at actually seeing something, I was ready to brave the approximately 20-minute wait to shuffle through Thanks for the Memories. Ahhh, pop culture—one of my favorite subjects. There are some iconic things here, like the ruby slippers worn by Judy Garland in “The Wizard of Oz” (looking decidedly scuffed) and Kermit, the beloved Muppet frog. You’ll also see Phyllis Diller’s stage props (a fright wig and cigarette holder complete with wooden cigarette), Seinfeld’s puffy shirt, Apolo Ohno’s speed skates and, in a nod to early hip-hop, Grandmaster Flash’s turntable.   Of course this is just the tip of the iceberg—the museum curates a staggering 3 million objects, of which a mere 5,000 are on display. And the renovation isn’t finished; the east and west wings are both awaiting refurbishment, and older exhibits are still on display. If you haven’t been here lately, the jazzy new space is well worth checking out. Also check their blog at http://blog.americanhistory.si.edu/