The Truckee River, Reno, Nevada
A Reno local told me of a tradition where jilted wives, post-divorce, toss their wedding rings into the Truckee River. Thank goodness the river runs swiftly through town or there would likely be a marked increase in divers looking for glimmering cast-offs!
But the alleged sparkling sand under a cold river is just part of the shine returning to Nevada’s second city. Sadly, too many travelers looking for bright lights and blaring slot machines venture to the warmer south end of the state, ignoring what this old cowboy outpost has to offer a modern audience. Las Vegas gets the headlines. It has top hotels and casinos, world-class shows, and every time a hotel starts to show its age, they blow it up--itself a tourist attraction! So, why Reno? Well, on a recent sojourn for a AAA Washington travel services meeting, I found out. Now, keep in mind that my grandparents used to live in Minden, Nevada, not far from Reno; my family would visit them once a year. For a kid, Reno was just somewhere far away that made for a long car ride. I remembered some of the changes over the years as my grandparents would take us to see places and friends in Sparks and Gardnerville. But I never really appreciated it until I visited as an adult. Just over the mountain--take U.S. 50 or State Route 431, take your pick--you get to Lake Tahoe, itself a destination. I could fill pages on this site talking about the world-class skiing, top resorts, vibrant downtown, and incredible outdoor fun year-round (including the best lake views anywhere!). But, I want to take my focus to the neon-infused treasure just east. So, let’s begin. About a half-hour (or a bit longer on horseback) outside of town you find the classic cowboy town of Virginia City. Walking its original wood sidewalks is a step back into history, when this area of the west was wild and the fortitude of a frontiersman was definitely necessary. Virginia City is a living museum, filled with characters possessed with the spirit of that long-past day. Every bar, museum and shop brings you closer to the sepia-toned history of the city. My absolute favorite thing to do in Virginia City is take the narrated city tour. Every driver/guide I have ever had presented the history of the town in a fascinating, entertaining way. In fact, one guide had homemade cookies for all his guests—and gave us the recipe! Try getting that from the tram driver at Disneyland! As you meander through town on the tour, you are exposed to the sometimes seedy past of this old outpost, with sto
ries ranging from incredible wealth dug out of the Comstock Lode, to tales of prostitution and neighborly wars. It was the silver out of the Comstock Lode that made this city one of the wealthiest in the nation, drawing businessmen and the finest entertainers of the time to this dusty spot in the west.
Now, let’s go back to the Biggest Little City in the World. I love Reno. I didn’t always, but I do now. I was absolutely shocked at the breadth of activities available in and around the city. As I mentioned before, let’s just forget Lake Tahoe for now; there’s too much just there to talk about.
In Reno, it’s true that the downtown core has parts that have seen better days. Much like Las Vegas, there are some areas that have been slower to reinvent themselves (Fitzgerald’s has closed, and may or may not reopen), but their day will come. However, the area around the Circus Circus/El Dorado/Silver Legacy hotel complex is vibrant and attractive. And, in October, they close down the downtown streets for an amazing, fragrant Italian food festival. I had some of the best pasta I have ever had at that festival. Street performers make their way through the crowd, entertaining the children and adults alike (though the food really is the star). Though I have to say, if you have ever watched one of those rib cook-offs on the Food Network, you have the chance to experience live over Labor Day weekend at the Nugget Rib Cookoff. From Sept. 2-7, the best rib cooks anywhere will go rack-for-rack to see whose cuisine reigns supreme. They are expecting 500,000 people, according to their website, and the event is free! (You just might see me there.)
Reno is also the host of Hot August Nights, one of the country’s premier hot rod shows, taking place each August. And, don’t forget the Reno Air Races, this year in June. I remember sitting on my grandparents’ back porch in Minden, watching the planes as they practiced for the races. Every so often, one would pop up over their back fence and give us all a thrill!
As a huge baseball fan, I was excited to hear that Reno is getting a AAA-level affiliate for the Arizona Diamondbacks, called the Reno Aces.
While in Reno, I stayed at the Silver Legacy and loved it. From inside, you can walk between that hotel, Circus Circus, and the El Dorado. All three hotels have great restaurants, shops, casinos, and shows. Plus, all the rooms I saw (including mine) were comfortable and clean.
If you want something a little different, head over to the Grand Sierra, which is outside of downtown. They have a property that could hold its own against any in Las Vegas. With its own lake and restaurants turning out some of the best food I have ever had (sorry, mom), it is worth a visit no mater what your other plans. Plus, they have an ingenious wine bar. You purchase a drink card that you insert into the machines. Each machine has about a dozen or more bottles of wine, red and white. 
You choose, one-, three-, or five-ounce tastes of wine, with the price deducted from your card depending on the price of the wine. This allows you to sample a large array of wine in a relaxed atmosphere, staffed with experts to help you choose the best wine for you.
The brave - and sober - could venture back onto the Truckee River and its whitewater park, complete with a Class 2 and Class 3 course. Right in downtown, this was an unexpected discovery. Imagine roaring down the river, right through downtown, and then hop out of your kayak only to walk back to your hotel. I’ve never seen anything like it.
My visit to Reno opened my eyes to a city that had been dark to me for many years. I am excited to see what Reno has become since I watched those race planes from my grandparents’ backyard all those years ago. Now, it has become a new adventure spot for me, full of treasures I did not realize—not unlike those baubles buried under the river. Maybe a little kayak trip will be in order on my next visit….
