I’m not a huge fan of walking around cemeteries; I figure that if I’m eventually going to end up planted in one anyway, why tempt fate by showing up early? But I spent an unusually rainy week in Atlanta that ended up scrambling my sightseeing plans. Riding Marta one afternoon en route to Midtown, I idly listened to the cheerful recorded voice announcing the points of interest in the vicinity of the next stop, and the Historic Oakland Cemetery was one of them. I made a mental note to add it to my itinerary.

I ended up visiting on a Saturday afternoon, and the sepulchral weather—leaden gray skies, intermittent rain and occasional ominous rumblings of thunder—actually enhanced my exploration of the city’s oldest landmark in continuous use. Oakland Cemetery was founded in 1850 when Atlanta outgrew its municipal graveyard. The city needed space to lay some 7,000 Civil War soldiers to rest, and purchased additional land that enlarged the cemetery to its present 48 acres. About 15 burials still take place each year, but the main reason to come here is to appreciate the peace, quiet and lovely setting.

During the late 19th century Oakland developed into what is known as a rural garden cemetery, a highly fashionable style at the time. There are rows of anonymous headstones, but also some pretty impressive marble mausoleums and monuments. The fact that most of them have blackened over time from exposure to the elements only adds to their character. Statues stand atop columns like benevolent sentries, and chubby cherubs symbolize life’s possibilities (or a life cut tragically short).

I suggest picking up the self-guiding tour brochure and map from the Visitors Center (follow the signs after you enter through the main gate). It makes orientation a lot easier, and the brochure provides background information on the more notable sites. Without it I would never have found Robert Tyre “Bobby” Jones, an amateur golfer who won the first “grand slam” (four major tournaments in one year) in 1930. There was a pile of golf balls—a few resting on tees—on the ground in front of his headstone, no doubt left by duffers paying tribute.

Oakland’s most famous resident is probably Gone With the Wind author Margaret Mitchell, and directional signs lead you to the Mitchell family gravesite, where her mother and father also are buried (Mitchell’s headstone says “Marsh,” her second husband’s name). Mitchell was born in the nearby Old Fourth Ward neighborhood and as a child rode her pony through the grounds.

Nearby, the Bloomfield family marker caught my eye because of the large cross garlanded with ivy. It honors four sisters, the youngest 2 and the oldest 8, who died within a 10-day period in 1863 of diphtheria, a disease that once claimed the lives of many children.

Despite the dreary day, this was a beautiful place. For one thing dogwoods were in bloom, and their white flowers lent a wistful dignity to the rows of simple white markers on the Confederate Memorial Grounds. A few redbuds added a touch of deep pink color. I was too early for magnolias and roses, but the trees were leafing out. I saw a couple of joggers and dog walkers, and on a sunny day with a nice breeze and a blanket spread on the grass, this would be a delightful spot for a picnic. 

And although decorum dictates that you probably shouldn’t yuk it up on cemetery grounds, I couldn’t help but chuckle to myself when I noticed that one of the establishments across Memorial Drive is called Six Feet Under (cheeky!). I didn’t check out this neighborhood pub, but it has a raw bar and a tasty-looking seafood menu (grilled catfish tacos, yum). If anyone out there has a personal recommendation, let’s hear it.

The Historic Oakland Cemetery main gate is at 248 Oakland Ave. S.E.; if driving use I-20 exit 59A. Street parking is available, but it’s easier to take Marta’s East-West line and get off at the King Memorial station. It’s about a 10-minute walk from the station to the visitor entrance.