This is a magnificent island, as I described in a previous blog, Kauai, Yes We Have Rain, and especially for driving. Every mile brings a stunning vista, and the traffic generally is light. The island’s airport at the island capital of Lihue is equidistant between the end of Kauai roads to the west and to the north/northwest.

First, drive on short Route 570 (also called Ahukini Rd.) to leave the airport area and then turn left on Route 50 (aka Kaumualii Hwy.) and point the car towards the southwest, which will take you to Poipu, where you will likely have your hotel rooms. One road to Poipu is Route 520, and not far from the junction with Route 50, you will come across a tunnel of eucalyptus trees, which is very fun to drive through.

Back on Route 50, get ready for an amazing drive. It is beautiful all the way down, but things become spectacular when you reach Waimea and turn right on the Waimea Canyon Drive. This might be blasphemy, but the Waimea Canyon rivals if not trumps Arizona’s Grand Canyon. This road is slow, so take your time, and park carefully when you decide—as you will—to take photographs or simply look at the general gorgeousness.

Where this drive meets Koke’e Rd., park and look over your shoulder at distant Ni’ihau Island, which is private, so—unless you pay serious amounts of money for a flyover and brief touchdown—this is the closest you can get. The colors of the canyon range from yellow to orange to mauve to green, and if you are lucky enough to be here on a sunny day after a rainy one, you will see waterfalls permanent or temporary dazzle the landscape. The road finishes up at the Pu’u o Kila Lookout, which looks down over lush hillsides that look like crumpled billiard-table baize. If you have a 4WD, you might go a little farther along the road, but believe me, you have seen so much that is truly beautiful by then, you might not want to.

The end of the drive around the other side of the island is only about four miles as the crow flies from the Pu’u o Kila Lookout, but do not attempt to get to it on foot. The drive will take three hours, with no stops. In other words, it’s good for another day. All this island is gorgeous, so there is little point singling any things out, but I will. Get a good map and try and find Secret Beach, which is near the small town of Kilauea. It requires getting off the main road (which is numbered 56 after 50 reaches Lihue) and then walking down a narrow lane of tree roots and boulders, before you drop down on it, but wow, what a strand.

A fantastic place for lunch or a coffee is the surfers’-paradise town of Hanalei, and before you get there, stop off at the Hanalei Bridge (you cannot miss it) for a beautiful view of taro plantations and surrounding mountains. The road ends at Ke’e Beach, which is where also starts the trail along the Na’pali Coast. This is a very strenuous walk and only for the sure-footed; I saw people attempting this walk late in the afternoon when two and a half miles to the next beach, which is where everyone heads to, will take you two and a half hours. Take water.

The beach is called Hanakapi’ai, and you must not go swimming there or walk farther (you need a permit to walk beyond). I cannot stress too much how dangerous the water currents are here, but the drive there and the walk are among the most perfect things you can do anywhere, so enjoy anyway.