“How old is it?” That’s the question I always ask a tour guide when looking at an old structure, and in Europe they usually say something like, “Oh, that building is 400 years old.”

In Norwich, in the East of England, 400 years is just yesterday. Old is something that is, say, around 1,000 years old. In fact, the countryside around this ancient walled city is dotted with watchtowers older than that, dating from Saxon, Viking, and even Roman times.  Norwich—some two hours northeast of London by high-speed rail—is full of history and not full of tourists. Sure, they get visitors but nothing like the Cotswolds or Cornwall. The uncrowded and low-key way of life here is a real draw. That’s what I’d heard, and that’s why I came here.

The first surprise in Norwich is the train station, which looks like a country house. Turns out, the locals wanted something that didn’t look like a train station and that’s just what they got. I took a taxi from the station into town and drove by the tree-lined banks of one of the seven rivers that flow through the area. Occasionally, I caught glimpses of the ruins of the wall that encircled the large medieval city.

In 2000, Norwich built an ultra-modern steel and glass building that houses a BBC radio station, the town’s well-used library, and a small library dedicated to the US airmen stationed in the area during World War II. And that’s where I started my walking tour. Maps are available at the visitor center, or you can arrange for a Blue Badge Guide for a custom tour. Incidentally, you can find Blue Badge Guides throughout the United Kingdom. They study for years and take an exam to qualify as guides. They’re the equivalent of a London Black Cab driver—both are simply the best in the world at what they do.

You can easily spend a day in Norwich just walking the streets. The city market has been in continuous operation since somewhere around the year 1,000. The streets facing it are flanked by medieval buildings, although some shops have covered over the original façades. However, explore the side streets that run in every direction, and you can find some shops and buildings that maintain the original medieval exteriors. Stroll through a covered arcade of shops and you’ll come out on the other end looking up at Norwich Castle, which has among other treasures the largest collection of teapots in the world.

Okay, pause here for some facts and figures. Norwich has the largest collection of original medieval buildings in England, some 1,600 buildings spanning 1,000 years. In fact, the small neighborhood of Elm Hill has more medieval buildings than London. Colman’s Mustard was first made in Norwich in 1814 and the factory is still there. Norwich has the largest collection of pre-Reformation churches in Europe. Admiral Lord Nelson and Elizabeth Fry, the famous prison reformer, both hailed from the region. And noted author Bill Bryson lives just outside of Norwich. Norwich Cathedral was built some 900 years ago in the time of William the Conqueror.

A huge building with the original cloister (that’s the covered walkway surrounding a large open lawn where the monks used to walk and pray), it took 50 years to build—from 1096 to 1142. The copper baptismal font is a former chocolate pot from a local factory. I met Graham Smith, dean of the cathedral who explained that the massive buildings weren’t actually built for the public but rather to show the power of the church and king and to provide a place for the monks to worship. Seems those poor folk in the country were fond of processions and would come to watch the monks walk in formation to services. The monks merely tolerated their presence. The idea of inviting the public to services came much later. Since most everyone was illiterate and the monks were the only ones who could read and write, they maintained the power of the king.

A short distance from the Cathedral is the Great Hospital. Built in 1249, it really isn’t a hospital in the traditional sense but rather a home for the elderly. It still cares for residents who live in the cozy cottages set among beautiful gardens. Possibly the oldest continuously operating facility anywhere. Amazing what a short conversation with the Dean of the Cathedral can reveal.

Filled with information, I desperately needed afternoon tea. So, in keeping with the historical theme, I walked to the Maids Head Hotel. After all, Elizabeth I was rumored to have slept there in 1587. Her room is still pretty much the same but they have changed the linen. And Catherine of Aragon the apprehensive first wife of Henry the VIII, stayed there when she came to consult the cathedral monks about childbearing things. And everyone says Admiral Lord Nelson had his first drink there. Of course, he was younger and not yet an Admiral. I found a chair in a cozy room with a fireplace and ordered tea. I’m addicted to a proper English tea. And this was perfection: warm scones, heavenly fresh strawberry cakes, freshly made cucumber finger sandwiches. After two pots of tea and more cakes, sandwiches and scones than I will admit to, I staggered outside into the clear spring air of Norwich and wondered why I hadn’t come to the East of England before this.

- Paul Lasley