San Francisco is such an awesome city you might never think of leaving it for the environs. Wrong. The Bay Area, of course, is chock-full of delights that have the power to tempt me away from Mission taquerias and long walks through Golden Gate Park. Venturing out on a day trip to Sonoma County on a picture-perfect Sunday morning—blue skies, sunshine and the temperature about 65 degrees—I discovered (with the help of a good friend) a gem I just have to share.

We were on our way to Sebastopol, one of those charming northern California towns that seem to be populated chiefly by artisans, farmers and old hippies. Downtown we passed a farmers market and decided to stop. Actually that was my decision; I love farmers markets. First we made a quick trip to Whole Foods across the street for snacky provisions (hummus for me, veggie chips for my friend). I also spent another few minutes enraptured by the display of gorgeous potted chrysanthemums next to the entrance. Then it was back to the market. After picking up some java from the coffee wagon we hung out for awhile, inspecting the stands of produce (another purchase: organic grapes) and watching three people spin sheep’s wool. A soundtrack was provided by some dude sitting on a bench playing acoustic guitar and singing in a Jerry Garcia-esque drawl.

From Sebastopol we drove west on SR 12 (the Bodega Highway) toward the coast. The Sonoma countryside is almost indescribably lovely. I’m talking rolling hills—some brown, some green—farmland and groves of eucalyptus trees; their fragrant scent permeates the air. After about 5 miles of enjoying the glorious scenery my friend abruptly turned off the road and pulled into a small parking lot. “This might be the best bakery around,” he announced. Since he lived in San Francisco for years, commutes regularly between the city and Orlando and has friends all over this part of the state, I was inclined to believe him.

The small building housing Wild Flour Bread looks unassuming from the outside, competing as it does with the surrounding bucolic vista that is Freestone Valley: fields, barns and grazing cows set against a backdrop of trees. But walk inside and you enter another world. The first thing that hit me was the smell of fresh-baked loaves. (Is there a more wonderful aroma than this? Perhaps, but I can’t think of one at the moment.)

The next thing I noticed was the music—Crosby, Stills, Nash and Young’s “Our House” wafted in the background. Ahhhh, that’s perfect. I glanced up at the high, wood-beamed ceiling, where dust motes danced in the sunlit air. Breads and baked goodies fresh out of the oven lay piled on wooden tables behind the counter. I knew I wasn’t leaving empty-handed. Trying to decide what to get was agonizing in the best possible way.

The choices! Wild Flour Bread offers from 10 to 12 different breads daily, along with sticky buns, biscotti, scones and assorted other delights. The breads are baked in a eucalyptus wood-fired brick oven, and they’re all organic. Never having been here before, I was a little overwhelmed. Then I saw “pumpkin loaf” on the blackboard list of specials. “Do you have the pumpkin loaf?” I asked the friendly woman behind the counter. “We have two left and it’s delicious, so you better get one.”

Man, she wasn’t kidding. As soon as we got back to the car I hauled the hot, plump, dark brown loaf out of its bag. The crust was thick and dense, the bread beneath softer but still chewy. It was redolent with the aromas of pumpkin and allspice, studded with walnuts, golden raisins and dried cranberries. I tore off a piece and popped it in my mouth. Then I had another. Then I crowned another piece with a big dollop of hummus. We alternated pieces of bread with handfuls of grapes, driving through the beautiful Sonoma countryside in the sun. I’m telling you, it was pure bliss.

Greg’s advice: The bakery also has a garden and fruit orchard out back - you could be wandering among nasturtiums, wild raspberries, herbs, vegetables and giant sunflowers. Wild Flour Bread is in Freestone, about 5 miles west of Sebastopol via SR 12. Turn right at the Bohemian Highway junction; the bakery is immediately on the left. It’s open Fri.-Mon. 8:30-6; closed Dec. 25. Credit cards aren’t accepted. The Sebastopol Farmers Market sets up at Downtown Plaza (at McKinley Street) Sundays 10-1:30, April through December.