I’m devouring a Ted Drewes chocolate concrete at 11:30 a.m. on a Saturday. Why am I doing this? For one thing, it’s a decidedly hot morning in the Gateway to the West. For another thing, my hectic business travel schedule did not allow time for me to grab breakfast, and I’m starving. And let’s also just say that, like the proverbial moth to the flame, I was inexorably drawn to what has been a local institution since 1931.

Who is Ted Drewes? Well, his father opened an ice cream store in Florida in 1929 and a second one in St. Louis two years later. In addition to managing these family businesses, Ted Jr. travels to Nova Scotia every fall and brings back Canadian balsam firs that end up beautifying many living rooms during the holiday season. In St. Louis the name Drewes is pretty much synonymous with ice cream and Christmas trees.

Back to the matter at hand. Ted Drewes is a frozen custard stand that whips up malts, shakes, sundaes, cones, floats and ice cream sodas for sweet treat fans—which pretty much includes everyone from toddlers through centenarians. This tiny white-brick cube in the center of a worn parking lot is located in an older working-class neighborhood of redbrick houses. The blazing sun causes heat to rise from the asphalt in little waves as I quickly exit my car and duck into the narrow rectangle of shade provided by the roof overhang.

There’s already a line at the order window. This is my inaugural visit, but I already know what I want: a concrete. It’s a cross between a milkshake and a scoop and is celebrated for its ability to firmly anchor a plastic spoon when the cup is held upside down. I’ve got to try it. My mind is made up, although there are all kinds of yummy-sounding temptations on the all-dessert menu—like the Big Apple concrete (a slice of apple pie blended into custard) or the Fox Treat (an ice cream sundae with hot fudge, raspberries and macadamia nuts).

Drewes regulars rattle off their orders with the confidence of seasoned pros: “One All Shook Up” (Reese’s peanut butter cups, bananas and walnuts).  “A large Crater Copernicus” (devil’s food caked topped with custard, hot fudge and whipped cream). A woman exuberantly announces, with a big smile, “I’d like a medium Dutchman Delight, please.” (That would be chocolate ice cream anointed with butterscotch syrup and pecans.) Extras include almonds, pistachios, flaked coconut and a rainbow array of candy sprinkles.

Once my unadorned medium chocolate concrete ($3.30) arrives I have to administer the spoon test. “Concrete” is a bit of an exaggeration; this is no brick, although the texture is quite firm. Held upside down, the spoon does indeed stay in place. But not for long—the frozen custard begins melting almost immediately in the sultry heat, and of course I commence attacking it with gusto.

The verdict? Rich and glorious chocolatey goodness. This thing is tasty. I could have polished off a large ($4.50), but I’m definitely satisfied. The Drewes reputation is well earned. And if I lived anywhere near South Grand I would be hitting the treadmill regularly to cancel out the caloric effects of Ted’s, because you don’t deny yourself something this good.

Ted Drewes Frozen Custard is located at 4224 S. Grand Blvd. It opens daily at 11 a.m., Mother’s Day through Labor Day. There’s another location at 6726 Chippewa St. (Old Route 66) in St. Louis Hills.