“A San Antonio institution.” Okay, when a restaurant bills itself that authoritatively, I’ve just got to call their bluff. It was a foregone conclusion I’d be checking out Mi Tierra on a recent trip to the city deep in the heart of Texas. I was also acting on a tip from Patty Cakes (that’s what it said on her name tag), a good ’ol Texas gal and greeter at the San Antonio airport. Her insider credentials were impeccable (years lived in San Antone: 40), and her attitude was as no-nonsense as her 10-gallon hat.

“Can you give me a Mexican restaurant recommendation?” “Yep. Mi Tierra. Get #8—it’s a lot of food and it’s good. And be sure you pick up some treats at the bakery next door.”

Point taken. I thanked Patty and resolved to have lunch at Mi Tierra that very afternoon.

If the definition of an institution includes age, Mi Tierra certainly qualifies—it’s been around since 1941, when Pete and Cruz Cortez opened a small cafe at the city market for farmers who were up and working before sunrise. And although it’s grown considerably since, this is still a family-run place. You can tell when you’re greeted with a smile, effusively shown to a table and hear the strolling mariachis strike up a song.

The word for the decor? Festive. It’s an explosion of color, with streamers and flags and tiny lights all dangling from the ceiling. Along with the rollicking mariachi music, it puts you right in the mood to have fun and chow down on some good Mexican.

Chips and salsa came out quickly. The chips were fresh and the salsa had a spicy kick. Thumbs up. Overall I would call the menu Tex-Mex, although there are plenty of authentic Mexican dishes like menudo, beef tripe stew that is a traditional hangover cure, and pork tamales topped with chili meat gravy. I decided on chicken flautas, or “flutes”—two crispy rolled corn tortillas filled with seasoned grilled chicken. The plate came with Spanish rice and refried beans and garnishes of guacamole and sour cream. It was standard Mexican fare but absolutely delicious, and I devoured every bit of it.

I have to mention the panadería, which is inside the restaurant. Mexican bakeries tend to offer different kinds of goodies than what you’ll find in American bakeries. Many items are only slightly sweet, like pan de huevo, egg bread lightly glazed with a sugar or coconut topping. The “Ricardo” is a crème-filled bun with a caramel-pecan topping. An empanada de camote is a turnover with a spiced sweet potato filling. Instead of chocolate confections, sweets run to candied fruit and lots of pink icing. After much perusing of the glass display case I settled on a simple cinnamon cookie, which turned out to be the right choice since it didn’t knock me into a sugar coma. 

My hat’s off to you, Ms. Cakes. Mi Tierra is a winner, and not just because it’s open 24 hours (a huge plus in my book). 

The AAA rated Two Diamond Mi Tierra Cafe y Panadería is in Market Square (between Commerce and Dolorosa streets), three blocks west of Main Plaza.