Hip hangouts are one thing San Francisco doesn’t lack. This is a city so diverse, so cosmopolitan and so culturally invigorating that it’s basically hip by default. During a recent vacation I had a great time one morning exploring the stretch of Valencia Street that runs through the Mission District. Here’s my report.

If you’re familiar with San Francisco you know the Mission isn’t a neighborhood that reflects obvious wealth like, for example, Pacific Heights. And it certainly has some gritty aspects. But over the last 10 or so years a number of trendy coffeehouses, stylish restaurants, funky boutiques and cool bars have opened along the stretch of Valencia from 17th Street south to about 22nd Street.

My first stop was Clarion Alley, just south of 17th Street. Running between Valencia and Mission streets, this narrow, unassuming alleyway is lined with mind-blowing murals that you simply must see. Walls, garage doors and basically any other flat surface are covered with kaleidoscopically colorful graffiti and street art. Two murals really stood out for me—one with a human-shaped figure blending into a landscape of otherworldly trees and flowers, and an undersea motif that includes an octopus sporting a pair of goggles. Beautiful artistic details abound; check out the green geisha figure holding a parasol beneath the words “R.I.P. Jamica” (on the corner of Valencia at ground level). Political and social messages are part of the mix as well; some of these murals have been around for decades. And this is an urban alley, so don’t be too surprised if you encounter a whiff of something less than, well, aromatic.

Next to Clarion Alley is the Community Thrift Store (623 Valencia). Relying entirely on donations to stock its shelves, this is a classic San Francisco thrift shop filled with vintage clothing, old books, vinyl records and CDs, practical stuff (tons of kitchen items) and the odd treasure, like a cut-glass water pitcher, that you stumble on and suddenly have to own. Better yet, part of every sale goes to Bay Area charities.

Slide into Muddy Waters (521 Valencia), a comfortably beat-up coffee house with well-worn wood tables and chairs, a bulletin board plastered with community notices and a cozy back room. The music (often Arabic and/or droning) is always cool, there’s free wi-fi, an assortment of brownies and cookies for sale, and best of all—at least for me—a restroom (ask to be buzzed in).

One short detour I would suggest is to the Tartine Bakery & Cafe at 18th and Guerrero, a block west of Valencia. This little spot is quite well known among local sweet tooth and baked good aficionados. The pastries, breads and sandwiches are all homemade. An almond croissant? A coconut cream tart? A slice of ham and leek quiche? Thumbs up for all three. And coffee refills are unlimited (yay!). There’s often a line and seating is on the cramped side, but you can always get something to go.

In fact, you might want to take your goodies to the Mission Playground (on Valencia between 19th and 20th streets), a little pip of a park with benches, a well-maintained grassy area and playground equipment for kids. Before moving on, stop and take a look at the happy wall mural.

A couple of browse-worthy shops are perfect for a little time killing. My personal favorite is Paxton Gate (824 Valencia). I once saw a pair of stuffed alligators here, similar to what you would see in a souvenir beach shop in Florida—only these were standing upright and outfitted in Victorian lace dresses. I desperately wanted one until I saw the price tag ($600 if I remember correctly). It’s that kind of place—pricey exotica like fossils, animal skulls, weird taxidermy objects, carnivorous plants, unusual jewelry and books about strange subjects. I love the framed butterflies and insects.

Just as whimsical but less gothic is the Curiosity Shoppe (across the street at 855 Valencia), where you can acquire offbeat items like flashlight lamps, porcelain cupcake containers or a cheese board in the shape of France.

San Francisco is a city of bookstores, and there are two good ones on Valencia. Modern Times Bookstore (corner of 20th Street) stocks an eclectic collection focusing on progressive and bilingual literature and books by small independent publishers. They also have an excellent selection of specialty magazines and fanzines and yes, a public restroom. A couple of doors down is Dog Eared Books—lots of tomes both new and used, graphic novels, more zines and a comfy atmosphere.

If you’re like me, by now you’re probably thinking about coffee again. Ritual Coffee Roasters (1026 Valencia, between 21st and 22nd streets) is a neighborhood meeting place for Web techie types and political activists who commandeer a table for long, serious conversations. The baristas totally know their stuff. While the coffee is much better than what you get at, say, the Dunkin’ Donuts drive-through, you’ll pay more, too. But Ritual definitely qualifies as a hip hangout.
 
I sojourned down Valencia as far as 24th Street, and that’s where this travelogue also ends; 24th is so interesting it merits a blog all its own. Stay tuned!

Valencia Street runs from Market Street south to Mission Street. BART’s 16th Street/Mission station is a short walk from 17th and Valencia; Muni’s Church Street station is a 10-minute walk away.