There may be another city with a more dazzling variety of scenic views than San Francisco, but I can’t think of one at the moment. I discover a cool new view every time I’m here. But if you want to appreciate the totality of the city by the bay from one lofty vantage point, I suggest a trip to Twin Peaks.

A little background: Twin Peaks is the collective name for two hills in the geographical center of San Francisco. The taller of the two rises 922 feet, just five feet shy of the city’s highest point, nearby Mt. Davidson. The two hilltops are one of the few undeveloped areas in a city where almost every square foot of space is utilized for something. People come here for the view—and boy what a view it is.

For the casual sightseer, driving to Twin Peaks is a fun trip—and I recommend driving unless you’re one of those prodigiously fit types able to cycle or hoof it to the top. From downtown, take Market Street to 17th Street, then 17th Street (which begins a steep ascent here) to Twin Peaks Boulevard. Turn left on Twin Peaks Boulevard and follow it up the hill as it winds circuitously past some ultra cool-looking houses (this residential neighborhood also is called Twin Peaks). They’re not only architecturally interesting but have killer views to boot; this has got be some pricey real estate in a city infamous for pricey real estate.

The circular parking area at what is called Christmas Tree Point is situated about 100 feet below the summit of Eureka Peak. There are only about 20 parking spaces, but people are constantly arriving and departing; my friend and I had no problem snagging a space. There’s a sidewalk and a low curving wall that you can lean against while gazing out over the city. The view is a full 360 degrees, so the city can be admired from different vantage points. Look—there’s the Golden Gate Bridge! Look—there’s the Transamerica Pyramid! Look—there’s Alcatraz! San Francisco and the bay unfold below you in all their glory. Do not forget your camera. There also are a couple of those mounted telescopes; insert 50 cents and zero in on various city landmarks.

From the parking lot you can walk to a hiking trail that traverses the north and south peaks and provides better vistas of the Pacific Ocean and the Golden Gate Bridge. Natural vegetation thrives in this protected area, including wildflowers that bloom from March into April at the tail end of the winter rainy season.

Of course the views are best on a sunny, clear day, but watching fog roll in off the ocean can be quite a sight from this elevated position. It’s also fun to come up here after dark. The city below twinkles with lights and the sky above (if it’s clear) twinkles with stars. Market Street is lit up like a beacon and you can see how it runs straight as a ruler all the way to the bay. My first trip to Twin Peaks was at night, and it was eye-opening to experience the same view in brilliant sunshine the next day. 

Finally, here are two handy tips: Twin Peaks is almost always windy so bring a jacket, especially after dark. And if you’re like me, you’ll be glad to know that there’s a Port-o-Potty at the parking area.