I’m not sure if it’s actually a mile long, but the 14-block stretch of N. Michigan Avenue dubbed the “Magnificent Mile” is where you go in Chicago if you’re enamored of high-end retailers, upscale vertical malls and an air of smart urbanity. If Carrie Bradshaw and her three “Sex and the City” BFFs lived in the Windy City instead of the Big Apple, they’d be hanging here 24/7.

I set out for a walk on a cool Saturday morning. Lying at the foot of the Magnificent Mile is the Michigan Avenue Bridge. It’s a bascule (meaning moveable) bridge that provides clearance for boat traffic, and unlike
the other bridges that span the north branch of the Chicago River—which marks the boundary between the Loop and the Near North Side—it’s a double rather than a single-decker.

Before the stores start coming thick and fast, take a peek at the Tribune Tower (435 N. Michigan Ave.). At 435 feet tall, it’s on the shorter end of Chicago skyscrapers. It houses the offices of the Chicago Tribune and has a neo-Gothic exterior (check out the buttresses near the top) more similar to the Wrigley Building across the street than to the streamlined glass-and-steel architectural style that came later. Look for the Nathan Hale statue at the front of the building standing against a backdrop of florid architectural detail; it makes a good photo op.

Beds of spring tulips added a nice touch to the Mile’s overall spiffy appearance, and they certainly seemed to be happy in the cool weather. Also attracting attention (lots of it) was the “Chicago Tin Man” (aka Kenneth Stringer III), who had staked out the busy corner of Michigan and Ontario Street. Wearing a silver jacket and hat and covered with silver face paint, he stood stock still atop a silver box while a boom box blasted out funk jams—until, without warning, he began to move in syncopated fashion. A Prince look-alike with Michael Jackson body language, he never spoke a word while enticing passers-by to pose with him or busting out some robotic dance moves as cell phone cameras flashed. This masterfully executed living statue routine struck me as a prime example of “The City That Works” in action; judging by the flurry of dollar bills dropping into the tip bucket, it’s probably quite the lucrative gig.

In addition to tony names like Cartier, Chanel and Giorgo Armani, the Magnificent Mile is known for its vertical malls, which cram lots of stores and boutiques onto several levels, making the most of limited space. One of the vertical mall pioneers was Chicago Place (700 N. Michigan Ave.), with rounded exterior corners that evoke the Chicago School architectural style. A sign on the revolving front door announced that it closed in April, although anchor Saks Fifth Avenue (corner of Michigan and Superior Street) remains open. But The 900 Shops (900 N. Michigan Ave., just south of Walton Street)—six levels of trendy boutiques plus Bloomingdale’s—should deplete your credit cards just as nicely.

The art of creative window displays is on entertaining view. I noted a trend toward bald, almost featureless mannequins; where did the vinyl wigs of yore go? Maybe this has been in vogue for awhile, since I don’t normally make a habit of window shopping. My favorite incorporated little metal T. Rex figures that I would have dressed in outfits as well.

Take a break at the little park at N. Michigan and Chicago avenues where the Chicago Water Tower stands. Built in 1869, it’s one of the few structures that withstood the Great Chicago Fire of 1871. This limestone tower looks like a Gothic castle. Aged trees with twisty branches, formal beds of white tulips and horse-drawn carriages lined up waiting for passengers all added to the charm and reminded me of NYC’s Central Park, albeit much, much smaller. I also took a detour to Washington Square Park (four blocks west of Michigan via Delaware Place), where orators publicly debated the issues of the day back in the mid-19th century. Today it was a quiet place to sit on a bench and marvel at the beauty of the cherry blossoms.

“Grande old dame” perfectly describes the Four Diamond-rated Drake Hotel on Walton just east of Michigan. Do pop in and peek at the elegant public areas, brimming with dark woods, polished brass, glittering chandeliers and ostentatious flower arrangements. Cool winged dragon sconces adorn this historic old hotel’s front entrance. Louis Vuitton and Gucci are within spitting distance.

Oak Street marks the northern end of the Magnificent Mile, but turn left on Oak and there are a few blocks of designer names like Jimmy Choo, Harry Winston, Kate Spade and Prada before you reach Rush Street.

I found an unexpected refuge at the Fourth Presbyterian Church (126 E. Chestnut St. at Michigan). The stained-glass windows in the sanctuary were beautiful, and the church courtyard had a small fountain with a carved stone sculpture. Despite being right on Michigan Avenue it was blessedly quiet. And after the hurly burly of the Mile, it was nice to have a few moments of simple solitude.