A trip to Sanibel and Captiva islands off the southwest coast of Florida should be on everyone’s list of must-see places in Florida, I’m not the beachy type (I was assigned to go in order to write about the area for the AAA Florida TourBook guide) but found an atmosphere that will erase stress, at least temporarily. The name of the game on both islands is fun: good, clean, all-American fun, as in biking, boating, collecting seashells on quiet beaches, horseback riding, wandering in and out of little boutiques, savoring a fresh seafood dinner while watching the sunset and soaking in the ambience and the sun.

First, I drove to Sanibel, since you have to go through Sanibel to get to Captiva. The two islands used to be connected, but now there’s a short bridge between the two. The distance from Fort Myers on the mainland to Sanibel was longer than I thought; the ride took about 40 minutes. I paid my toll ($6 for a car) and drove warily along the 3.5-mile Causeway Boulevard (I’m a scaredy cat), turning right on Periwinkle Way and then onto Sanibel-Captiva Road, Sanibel’s main drag. One tip: If you want to see the Sanibel Lighthouse, take a sharp left once you hit dry land onto Periwinkle Way and then turn right onto Buttonwood Lane.

As I drove, I began to see why these islands are so attractive to so many. Both are just drop-dead gorgeous, with luxurious foliage everywhere, no traffic lights (on Captiva) or just a few (on Sanibel), and small beach town charm oozing like suntan lotion squeezed too hard from a tube. Oh, and the beaches are quite beautiful, filled with soft, pearly sand and an infinite amount of seashells just waiting to be scooped up.


The Bailey-Matthews Shell Museum, a AAA GEM attraction, was my first stop. Somewhat hidden from the road (I drove past it and had to turn around), this museum packs everything you ever wanted to know about seashells into an octagon-shaped building surrounded by beach vegetation. I climbed the stairs into the museum and was heartily greeted by a silver-haired woman. She handed me a flyer which had photos of many varieties of shells (I saved it to prepare for future seashell hunting expeditions) and off I went. The museum’s octagon shape lends itself very well to the collection, with exhibits starting on the left, then going around clockwise.

I also checked out the exhibits in the middle of the room, including a globe that’s six feet in diameter; as you walk around it, you can see different types of shells from around the world. Pretty neat. Being a clotheshorse, I thought the collection of Italian cameos and buttons made from seashells was cool – I wasn’t expecting to see something like that here. The sailor’s valentine collection also captured my attention; I’d never heard of these curiosities, which are basically love letters made of artfully arranged seashells. This museum really educates visitors about everything seashell-related. Be prepared to spend some time here.

My visit to the shell museum gave me plenty of background information for my next stop: Bowman’s Beach (off Sanibel-Captiva Road, then left onto Bowman’s Beach Road). I parked my car (there’s a $2 fee), and walked in the direction of the beach. The walk seemed to take forever, but it was probably just a few minutes. At any rate, it was worth the walk. It’s fairly secluded; there are no hotels in sight, just soft sand and aquamarine water as far as I could see. I took off my sandals and headed towards the water’s edge. Looking down, I saw some pretty shells, and before I knew it, I had a bunch, and my back was hurting from doing the “Sanibel stoop.” The sun was about to begin its descent into the Gulf, and it was time for me to move on to Captiva Island.

Lining Captiva Road are a combination of vacation rental homes and homes owned by the rich or famous, but most are hidden from view by masses of tropical greenery; it lends the island an air of mystery. I headed towards Downtown Captiva Village (Andy Rosse Lane and Captiva Drive), which is home to some cute emporiums, galleries, restaurants and an adorable old-fashioned grocery store. It’s easy to find; the island’s only four-way stop sign marks the intersection. It was very reminiscent of the Florida Keys, but with an air of elegance. And don’t let the word “downtown” fool you; the area only covers a few blocks and even though it’s beachside, the word “country” seems more fitting. I didn’t have time for shopping, but on my next trip, I hope to check out Jungle Drums, a highly acclaimed gallery with whimsical objets d’art, paintings, furniture and jewelry made from such materials as glass, wood, ceramic and various metals.

I was hoping to try The Mucky Duck. (I love that name!) Named after an English pub and Captiva’s only restaurant on the beach, the place was packed and I was not a lucky duck in finding a parking space in the tiny lot. I noticed little groups of preppily dressed families walking down Andy Rosse Lane towards the beach; it was around sunset so I assume they were going to the beach to watch. It made me just a little jealous. How wonderful would it be to walk to the beach every night and watch the sunset?

So, with no luck at The Mucky Duck, I ended up at The Bubble Room Restaurant just down the block. I had eaten at the one in Orlando (now defunct), and it was a fun place, so I was looking forward to checking it out. You can’t miss the building; it sports every paint-box color imaginable. But that’s just the tip of the iceberg. Inside, Christmas décor and Hollywood memorabilia cover the walls and ceilings and more is under glass on the tables. Some may find it creepy, in a grandma’s-attic kind of way (the place was a little dusty), but I enjoyed it.

The Bubble Room servers, called Bubble Scouts, dress in Boy Scout-style uniforms and serve up sticky buns and bubble bread (a cheesy toasted bread) to start, and average-to-good main dishes named after World War II-era songs (e.g. Smoke Gets in Your Eyes). But my favorite item is the gargantuan slabs of cakes in such flavors as red velvet and orange crunch. From the oohs and aahs I heard from nearby tables when the dessert tray came around, I suspect that others share my feelings. I ordered a piece of black forest cake to go.

Next time (and there will be a next time), I plan on a longer stay on Sanibel and Captiva.