“ I love Paris in the spring time/ I love Paris in the fall/ I love Paris in the summer when it sizzles/ I love Paris in the winter when it drizzles/ I love Paris every moment/ Every moment of the year...” 

That Cole Porter song is my song … I LOVE Paris! But I must confess I’ve only been there in the spring (March) and in the fall (October), so I need to return in the winter (brrr!) and summer (whew – steamy hot!) to be fully acculturated.
I’ve toured the central city on foot, by boat, by bus, by train, from high atop buildings, and via the subway.  It’s an amazing metropolis combining historical sites with modern influences. I’m most attracted to the historical venues like Notre-Dame, where we climbed the 387 spiral steps to the top for a bird’s eye view; the Louvre, where the much guarded painting of the Mona Lisa smiles upon the crowd; Napoleon’s celebratory Arc de Triomphe; the famous cabaret show at the Moulin-Rouge and many more too numerous to mention here. 

Of course, all visitors must see the Tour Eiffel (Eiffel Tower), deemed the most visited monument in the world. My husband went to very top, but I couldn’t bring myself to cram into the narrow elevators that slowly angled upward. I was content to stay on the second level for my panoramic view of the city. Other “must do” activities include taking the funicular up to Basilique Sacre Coeur and exploring the surrounding artist community, touring the Rodin Museum where we were surprised to learn of the criticism the sculptor received for his realistic forms, enjoying  the scenic boat ride on the winding and centrally located Seine River, and discovering the island where Notre Dame now sits was the original site of the city. In 300 B.C., the Parissi tribe settled there, followed by the Romans.

Our hotel was the Place De La Republique, was reasonably priced for one of Europe’s most expensive cities, and was centrally located allowing us to easily travel most everywhere. The metro and train stations were right outside the hotel’s front door. We purchased a 4-day Paris Pass online and were able to select from among numerous attractions. The pass also includes unlimited travel on the metro, buses, and RER trains. In fact, a visitor could never begin to see everything included on the pass.

The food is all it is purported to be. My husband and I don’t aspire to overly chic and expensive dining venues, we like real food – or that which is eaten by the Parisians in their local cafes and bistros. The very popular Les Deux Magots café, formerly frequented by the likes of Ernest Hemingway and Pablo Picasso, was a tasty experience and we dined outdoors so we could engage in the standard local activity – people watching.

I’m a self-proclaimed expert on soupe a l’ongion gratinee (onion soup) and frequently order this original French specialty. When I’m served a deliciously creamy, steamy bowl of this native Parisian food, I savor it. The vast array of breads and pastries are a carb lover’s feast! The table wines are smooth and full-bodied.  The gastronomic list goes on and on. Don’t be surprised to see all the popular American chain restaurants throughout the city.

My mother was half French, so I claim my maternal genetics as I visit with the locals and expound in my rudimentary high school French, which, by the way, is quite pathetic. I read everything I can find about the region including fiction, biographies, and historical events.  I was heartbroken to recently learn that Paris was the site of a massive roundup of Jewish citizens in World War II who were then sent to the Nazi camps (read Sarah’s Key by Tatiana deRosnay). I’m intrigued by Julia Child’s adventures in Paris (My Life in France by Julia Child)and visited E. Dehilleran, her favorite kitchenwares store often mentioned in the book.  Consider reading The Girl With No Shadow, Joanne Harris’s sequel to Chocolat, where the drama takes place all around the Sacre Coeur. 

One day, we took a Greyhound bus tour(AAA members receive a 10% discount) to the Normandy beaches in western France. It was a very long day, but filled with scenery and history. I never really knew the details of D-Day (June 5, 1944) before this visit, but I’ve since watched taped footage of English, Canadian and American troops dropping into the rough seas, climbing the steep cliffs midst German gunfire, and marching across the country to Paris to free France. It is emotional to explore the region, especially the somber, yet beautiful American cemetery.  I encourage visitors to take this day trip. It’s insightful and inspiring.

Another day we hopped on the train to Versailles, about 30 miles outside Paris, for a half-day tour of the famous gilded palace built in the mid-1600s by the Sun King, Louis XIV.  The largest in Europe, the Palace of Versailles was the heart of the French monarchy until the 1789 revolution. It’s magnificent with its Hall of Mirrors, lavish gardens and incredible royal apartments.  We rented the self-guided audio tour and recommend it.

Our only “bad luck” in Paris was that my husband was pickpocketed. It most likely occurred on the subway. Fortunately, we always wear neck pouches when we travel and had some money and a debit/credit card in them. Our advice is to carry nothing of value in any of your pockets (even in the deep-pocketed cargo pants my husband was wearing), but secure your valuables in money belts or neck pouches (we carry our passports in them too). We alerted two credit card companies as soon as we discovered the theft. The thief also got away with my husband’s driver’s license and medical insurance card, both in the billfold. Not only did we lose the items, but it was a time-consuming hassle to follow-up with the notification and renewals.  We don’t carry much cash so only lost about 100 Euros.

Overall, we felt safe in Paris, but did not venture out in late evening. We never experienced rudeness or contempt that we were Americans. The city is welcoming, historic, colorful, eclectic, and exciting.  We hope to return in the summer of 2011 with our 12-year old granddaughter, who, of course, has been “brainwashed” by her grandma about the magnificence of this amazing city. C’est la vie!