This week, I once again had the pleasure of working in Quebec City’s 400-year-old historic quarter, near the famous castle-like Fairmont Le Chateau Frontenac. After a week of some tough driving on Quebec highways, with lots of blowing snow and icy roads, it was nice to arrive safe and sound. (At this time of year, snow tires are a must).

I unloaded my luggage at the historic Le Chateau de Pierre (an affordable Two Diamond-rated hotel with a view of a riverfront park and the Chateau Frontenac), then parked my car nearby in a heated municipal underground parking lot. Modern conveniences mix nicely here with the 400-year-old architecture. In the upper city, steel-and-glass highrises mark the skyline, but not in the old quarter. The historic Old Quebec neighborhood is preserved pretty much in the same style it was first constructed. It’s a walking city all year round, but particularly special in the winter months, when the sparkling snow is falling and covers the ground and trees (which it did both evenings I was there).

I left behind the stress of driving and walked through the quiet streets of this stone-walled city that has beautifully restored its past by requiring owners in the historic quarter to maintain their building facades in the same style they were originally built. This requires exterior signage to be modest and lit from the front with light bulbs (no back-lit plastic panels here). In addition, the mainly stone-and-brick buildings, some with ornate centuries-old masonry work, must have wood windows with the glass panels caulked with putty – the old-fashioned way.

As a result, this quaint district is one of the best North American destinations for experiencing an Old World holiday experience with snow. There are multiple events all winter to help you embrace the season, as well as some excellent ski hills 30 minutes away. (Quebec City has submitted a bid a to host a future Winter Olympics Games, but found out this week that its closest ski venue, Le Massif, may not be high enough for some Olympic downhill events).

In any case, the winter allure of this city never wanes. With the snow, it looks like a Dickens-era village with cobblestone streets and glowing lights through tiny windows in pretty shops, churches, bistros and condos. As I strolled past Le Chateau Frontenac, I saw tourists enjoying a ride in a horse-drawn carriage through the narrow streets decorated for Christmas.

For supper, I dined on traditional Quebec comfort food in one of the oldest buildings in the city, which houses Restaurant Aux Anciens Canadiens. I sat in front of the fireplace and tried the French onion soup and the “tourtiere” meat pie with elk, deer and caribou meats. For dessert, I had a delicious slice of maple syrup pie.
 
This year, Quebec City has used Charles Dickens to inspire its pre-Christmas event -- called QuebecAdabra! -- with three distinct neighborhoods decorated to represent Christmas past, present and future. The “past” is represented in the lower city’s Petit Champlain district, where walking tours are offered and 35-foot spruce trees are decorated with Victorian decorations. Christmas “present” is found in the Old Port area, where Christmas lights are powered by batteries recharged by university students pedaling stationery bikes. There is also a series of tall grain silos with images of the Northern Lights are projected on to them and a Christmas-tree labyrinth for children.

Visitors can experience the “future” (and some high-tech decorations) in the modern revitalized St-Roch district, which houses the city’s high-tech firms.  There, the aluminum tree is powered by LED lights and a light show is projected on to the façade of the St. Roch church.  The event runs this weekend, Dec. 17-19 and daily from Dec. 26-Dec. 31.

In keeping with the icy spirit, the city also has Hôtel de Glace (Ice Hotel) open Jan-March, where guests may sleep overnight in a room constructed entirely of ice.  And, if that’s not enough for lovers of winter, the city hosts its famous three-week Winter Carnival from Jan. 28 to Feb. 13, 2011.

Winter travel tip: For families with young children, small-wheeled umbrellas strollers are impractical for moving through snow on sidewalks; you are much better off using a jogger stroller with the larger rubber wheels. Winter tires (not “all-season” tires) are mandatory on cars after Dec. 15. 

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Photos courtesy of Quebec City Tourism