When I’m in San Francisco, either for business or for pleasure, I rarely seem to make it over to the East Bay. It’s a bit of a shame, because East Bay cities all have their own sightseeing diversions. But on my most recent San Francisco trip I partially remedied this by spending the day in Berkeley. And I didn’t even need a car; I just hopped on BART (hats off to San Francisco’s extensive public transportation system).
On my agenda: discovering the steps and walkways that thread through the city. I’m a big fan of San Francisco’s many stairways, and when I found out that Berkeley also had a network of pedestrian paths I wanted to check them out. To aid me in the search I obtained a map put out by the Berkeley Path Wanderers Association. 

Here’s a quick background. Like San Francisco, Berkeley spreads over a series of hills that are called, not surprisingly, the Berkeley Hills. Residential neighborhoods cover their western slopes, which overlook the northeast corner of San Francisco Bay. Streets twist and turn according to the contours of the land, and the higher you ascend the more impressive the views become. The Berkeley pathways (136 in all) were built into the hilly terrain to provide early residents with shortcuts to public transportation, shopping and schools.

I started out near the University of California campus. The paths are all named but they’re not all signed, and not being familiar with the city, the map was an invaluable guide. I discovered that some of these “pathways” are simply steps built into the sidewalk that make it easier to climb a steep section of hill. Others are public paths in between houses. I should mention that these were lovely old neighborhoods full of trees, gardens and architecturally diverse homes, so even if you’re not on a mission to explore the Berkeley pathways this is a pleasant trek—and good exercise.

The most picturesque stairway I came across was Orchard Lane, the formal pedestrian residence to the Panoramic Hill residential neighborhood. Built in 1909 in the grand classical style, it links houses near and along it with the university and downtown Berkeley. The stone pillars, balustrades and benches all have a weathered beauty, heightened by an overhanging bower of trees. At the top of these steps you can catch a glimpse of San Francisco Bay in the distance.

Short Cut Path was another attractive stone stairway that began at a parking lot on the grounds of the Claremont Hotel Club & Spa. This sprawling complex is situated on a hillside and looks every inch the handsomely appointed resort. Built in 1915, the Claremont has long been a favorite honeymoon destination as well as a weekend getaway for well-heeled Bay Area residents. I took a quick spin around the landscaped grounds while trying to give the impression that I had just checked in.

Next up was lunch at Cafe Mattina (formerly Cafe Intermezzo). I’ve blogged about this longtime Berkeley hangout previously, and it’s my favorite of the cheap eateries that line Telegraph Avenue just south of the campus. This place is known for the huge Veggie Delight salad, which is awesome. This time, however, I got the salad and half sandwich combo. The house-made poppy seed dressing is super good, and my half tuna sandwich came on thick slices of honey wheat bread—yummy and healthy. Note: It’s cash only.

I had arranged to meet up with a friend and take the short drive to the UC Botanical Garden  on the University of California Berkeley campus. This is a research garden, not a park, and it has a collection of plants from around the world—primarily from areas with a Mediterranean climate. It’s laid out according to geographical region, but you don’t have to know anything about botany to appreciate the many types of plantings. I found an incredibly bizarre-looking succulent in the Arid House that resembled a pretzel covered with spines. There also are lots of strange cacti in the New World Desert section. What I really liked was the hillside location; even though some of the gardens (like those planted with vegetables and herbs) were past their prime on this late November afternoon, the surrounding woodlands and the blue sky above contributed to a serene autumnal mood.  It was a lovely way to end my Berkeley day. 
 

To get to Orchard Lane from the UC campus, walk east on Bancroft Way to the Bancroft Steps, take the Bancroft Steps up to Prospect Street, continue to Panoramic Way, turn right and watch for the sign on the left-hand side of the street. Cafe Mattina is at 2442 Telegraph Ave., three blocks south of Bancroft Way. The UC Botanical Garden is at 200 Centennial Dr., about halfway between Memorial Stadium and the Lawrence Hall of Science; parking is available in the lot across the street. 

Click on the TripTik Travel Planner map to see more Berkeley information including accommodations, attractions, restaurants and more.