Evading the scorching temperatures of a south Texas August, I recently headed to San Miguel de Allende for some AAA inspections. San Miguel, as the locals call it, was mostly settled during Mexico’s silver boom—the period plazas, churches and homes were well-built with an ornate style. 

Just walking the narrow, hilly cobblestone streets evokes images of old Europe. San Miguel sits just west of the continental divide, is 6,500 feet above sea-level and generally provides a beautiful climate year-round. All of these special elements have long made San Miguel a haven for U.S. retirees and a popular travel spot with American tourists. It’s a beautiful place, and I get to evaluate about 25 lodgings and restaurants while there.

Getting there is easy. I flew directly from Houston to Queretaro on Continental Airlines and made it through customs and immigration in minutes before spending the afternoon in Queretaro (but that’s another blog). The next morning, I drove about 35 minutes to San Miguel and parked near the city’s main plaza, across from the world famous La Parroquia church.  

I walked round a bit and about a block north of the plaza, I came across the Three Diamond restaurant Harry’s New Orleans Café & Oyster Bar and was happy to find it open at 11:30 a.m.     

Sitting down, I declined the mimosa cocktail that was offered to all morning visitors. I considered their signature crab omelet but decided to begin with rich French coffee and natural yogurt with fresh berries and fruit.

Moments later I saw Mayan eggs on the menu and because I’ve been to Motul (a city known for its roots in Mayan civilization), I couldn’t pass up Harry’s interpretation of classic huevos Motulenos—fried eggs on a tortilla smeared with beans, smothered with spicy salsa ranchero and topped with bright fresh green peas and diced ham. Harry’s added their New Orleans flair by whipping the requisite fried plantains to a creamy texture, which was dotted on the plate. Yes, I ate it all.

Later, asking for the check, I was surprised with Harry’s version of petits fours: fresh, powdery, light as air, hot and golden brown beignets. New Orleans in the highlands of Central Mexico? Viva!

Most hotels in San Miguel are large, converted homes with thick walls, spacious interior and beautiful gardens and are often belied by a more subtle street-side façade. Villa Rivera Hotel, a Three Diamond  hotel, is located two blocks south of the main city plaza and is directly behind La Parroquia church. The hotel features a large courtyard with a pool and a garden where the gardener knocks down fresh avocados from 35-foot trees.

The hotel has period rooms, many with balconies, and a complete restaurant that features fresh juices and fruits, and certainly fresh avocados.

Just a couple of blocks away, the Four Diamond hotel Casa de Sierra Nevada Orient Express occupies several buildings along a picturesque cobblestone street and provides luxurious accommodations, including large roof-top suites with private pools, hanging gardens and spectacular city views.

For a late lunch, I chose El Pegaso, located two blocks east of the city plaza. The tomato-based tortilla soup is garnished with fried chicharones, crumbed Mexican cheese and diced avocado. I followed with classic enchiladas verdes, filled with shredded chicken and topped with tangy green tomatillo sauce. The staff seemed to know everyone who walked in and if they didn’t, they made it a point to get to know them. 

The next morning, I visited the plaza and shot photos and as the morning warmed, I drove north about 15 minutes toward Dolores Hidalgo to some rural hot springs. From the highway, it looks arid and desolate but watch for signs to Taboada or La Gruta. Believe me, you’ll be glad you visited.

There are interconnecting pools, fed from natural hot springs with varying temperatures, some almost uncomfortably warm. Large green areas are provided for sunning and relaxing. Hotel Hacienda Taboada is a full resort.

La Gruta has an underground cave with 4-foot-deep water, also fed by hot springs, which is fun to walk into. I spent the afternoon at La Gruta, alternating between hot soaks and rounds of dominos until closing time at 4:30 p.m. The cost is about $8 for the day.

That night I evaluated the Carcassonne Restaurant Bar, a Three Diamond restaurant. I sampled a buttery clam chowder with shrimp and lobster followed by garlic linguine and a citric salad decorated with a thick, sweet balsamic reduction.

The cuisine was very good, but I was equally impressed with the service. The maitre d’ was polished enough, but the young servers exuded an obvious devotion to their profession. They were always gracious, attentive and smiling as they quietly announced each dish, placing and removing items with precision and care. They were cognizant of every table’s needs.

At the end of my evaluation, I shared my observations with the manager, telling him how much I enjoyed the technical service of his staff. More smiles! 

Walking back to my hotel, I was surprised by the start of Fiestas Patrias, a series of parties and special events that lead up to Mexico’s Independence Day. To read about that celebration, read the History, Shopping and Food in Hidalgo Dolores, Mexico post.

Viva San Miguel!