Female impersonation is an art enjoyed by many people, myself included. And San Francisco has a rich drag tradition that goes back to landmark clubs like Finocchio’s, the landmark North Beach cabaret that attracted tourists from around the world for 63 years before closing in 1999. “Sunday’s a Drag” at Harry Denton’s Starlight Room has taken the baton from Finocchio’s, and on a recent San Francisco trip, this combination brunch and entertainment event was near the top of my must-do list.

Ensconced on the 21st floor of the Sir Francis Drake Hotel at 450 Powell St.—a block north of Union Square in the heart of downtown’s shopping and theater district—the Starlight Room is a nightclub that puts the “P” in plush. The views of downtown, Telegraph Hill and the Bay Bridge are dizzying, especially when the city twinkles with lights at night.

And the interior is a feast of velvet couches, ruby-red damask drapes, beveled mirrors and glittering chandeliers. From the tinkling piano music to the outsized flower arrangements to the hostesses attired in slinky black gowns, the opulence epitomizes a 1930s style of glamor.

In other words, it’s just the setting for a drag brunch. Drag is all about amazing illusion, empowering self-expression and a winking poke at rigid gender roles. “Sunday’s a Drag” began in 2006, when restaurant/nightclub owner and entertainment impresario Harry Denton and general manager Michael Pagan were brainstorming a way to bring classy drag entertainment back to the city.

They approached Donna Sachet, a San Francisco-based drag performer, singer, community activist and columnist for the Bay Area Reporter weekly newspaper, with an idea to resurrect the tradition. One thing led to another, Pagan became the producer of Sunday’s a Drag, Sachet was named Artistic Director, and it’s been mostly sold-out shows ever since.

My friend and I arrived early for the second seating to make sure we got a table right in front of the small stage (the layout of the room is changed for this show to more intimate cabaret-style seating). First there’s a serve-yourself brunch buffet, and it’s very good.

In addition to the usual choices like eggs Benedict, prime rib, French toast and omelets to order, there are salads, fruit, an array of muffins and pastries, orange and grapefruit juice, coffee and tea—the whole shebang. In keeping with the special-occasion atmosphere, you can also order pricey drinks and cocktails from the full bar.

Then the lights darken and Sachet makes her entrance, tastefully attired in a blue gown and gloves, massive diamond earrings (or are they rhinestones?) dangling from her ears. She’s the perfect emcee, keeping the show moving, tossing off funny ad-libs and lightheartedly ribbing the crowd, which is a mix of gay and straight, tourists and locals, couples and birthday groups. She also sings rather than lip-syncs standards like “I Left My Heart in San Francisco.” It’s obvious this classy dame is an enthusiastic city booster.

Sachet introduces each of the show’s performers. Lady Tia is statuesque and elegantly regal. Vivacious Kendra Monroe, equally statuesque, has a dazzling smile and a mile-high bouffant, while sultry blond Cassandra Cass is all about va-va-voom. They lip-sync to booming anthems (Lady Gaga’s “Born This Way”) and dance floor stompers in a razzle-dazzle flurry of sequins, feathers, leather, spike heels and extravagant makeup. The fun extends to the audience as the divas parade through the room shimmying, stopping to playfully caress one guy’s head (to the delight of his girlfriend of three days) and in general bringing the house down.

For the finale Donna thanks everyone for coming and brings the cast back onstage, along with Harry Denton himself, a jolly-looking gentleman in a dapper suit. She also invites anyone interested to have their picture taken with the performers. I jump at the chance, and they’re accommodating and friendly.

Drag queens often have an unapproachable image, so it was nice to chat and get to know them a little offstage. They all seemed to tower over me, and I’m not that short (it’s the hair and heels, honey). The drapes are also drawn back so you can admire the show-stopping city views.  

In a word, it’s a blast. If you’re in town, check out “Miracle on Powell Street;” the troupe’s holiday-themed revue runs through Dec. 26.

Sunday’s a Drag shows take place every Sunday at noon (seating begins at 11 a.m.) and 2:30 p.m. (seating begins at 1:30 p.m.). The cost is $44.95 per person, which does not include alcoholic beverages. Each seating is limited to 100 people, and reservations are a must; phone 415-395-8595.