Farmers markets are great places to pick up quality produce and specialty foods straight from the source, I also like the fact that you’re giving back to the farmers, growers, bakers, butchers, cheese makers and others who labor to supply us with tasty and (usually) healthy things to eat.

So when I ended up in St. Louis on a travel assignment, I made it a point to visit the Soulard Farmers Market, which has been in business in one form or another since—believe it or not—1779. 

The market is in Soulard, a riverside neighborhood just south of downtown. The area, with its old redbrick buildings, is a bit on the gritty side, but the location is convenient for a big-league market that serves as a vital link for regional farmers to get their products to the people.

I went on a Saturday morning, and that’s exactly what first-timers should do, too. This market is a big, open-air warehouse with a roof, shaped like an “H.” Two long corridors are lined with vendor stalls, with more stands and shops in the Grand Hall that connects the two corridors.

You’ll have to negotiate around the wandering masses, but then again this isn’t really the kind of place you just dart in and out of if you want the full experience. So slow down and enjoy the sights, sounds and smells.

Produce is the major thing here, sold by vendors like Schweiger’s, Smitty’s, Cheapo’s and Sal’s. Most of it is fresh and locally grown, as evidenced by signs saying “thank you for supporting Missouri farmers” and “Welcome Locavores” (people who are committed to eating only locally grown food).

Of course summer is the peak season for produce. That’s when you’ll find truckloads of watermelons, huge ’lopes and honeydews, baskets of ripe tomatoes, bins of luscious cherries, big clusters of grapes, fat zucchinis and cucumbers, you name it. Stuff that’s on the too-ripe side is marked down, but it’s still good for canning or preserving. Many of the stands are owned by families that have sold here for generations.

In addition to produce, there are meat, fish, cheese and egg vendors, a couple of bakeries and people selling cut flowers (I saw big bunches of bright yellow sunflowers when I was there), Soulard also has flea market-y vendors like the Sock Lady and the Jewelry Lady. Looking for aromatic soaps, incense or a baby iguana? Check, check and check.

While the emphasis is on fresh and healthy, it wouldn’t be a farmers market without something unhealthy to nosh on. I discovered a likely suspect at Schmitz’s Snacks (inside in the Grand Hall).

In addition to Hawaiian shaved ice, ice cream floats and pretzels made by Gus, Schmitz’s sells Pepper Bellies—a bag of Fritos coated with chili and topped with cheese, onions and jalapeño peppers. I resisted, although for the bargain price of $1.86 I was tempted.

Across the aisle is a spice shop with a hodgepodge of intriguing things like balsamic black bean dip, cayenne pepper pickling spice and pork rub seasoning for greens. 

Sidewalk musicians turn browsing into a festive affair. A couple of gents perched on stools engaged in nimble-fingered guitar pickin’, and a nattily attired man who called himself Raven Wolf delivered some smooth “spiritual jazz.”

I wasn’t about to leave empty-handed. On the healthy side, I purchased an organic seedless watermelon for $4 (delicious). On the not-so-healthy side, I gave in and indulged in some hot, fresh goodness at Mini Donuts, Etc. (in the market’s southwest wing).

While you’re standing in line, you can watch rings of batter being dropped into hot oil and then tossed onto paper towels, where the plumped-up goodies await a dusting of cinnamon and powdered sugar. They’re mega good, and best enjoyed on the spot and right out of the bag.

A couple of tips to keep in mind: Parking on the street is metered, and attendants will zealously ticket any car parked at an expired meter. Park in the free lot across 7th Street from the market (just follow the signs).

Bring cash; most vendors don’t accept credit cards. Arrive early, especially on weekends, because it will get packed. And bring a backpack or some other receptacle for stowing your purchases, since you’ll be doing a lot of walking.

The Soulard Farmers Market is at the corner of 7th and Carroll streets (take I-70 exit 251A to get on I-55 South, then take exit 208 to 7th Street). It’s open Wednesday through Friday 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. and Saturday from 6 a.m. to 5 p.m., year-round.