Whenever I am in Veracruz, located on the southern part of the Gulf of Mexico, I make my first stop the Gran Café de la Parroquia on the malecon (the popular promenade along the waterfront) for my “lechera grande.”  A waiter fills my glass with delicious espresso coffee from the region and then another roaming waiter adds scalding hot milk with flair. 

If the roaming waiter does not show up fast enough, I don’t hesitate to clink my glass with my spoon as the locals do to get the waiter’s attention. Veracruz breakfast favorites are served, such as huevos tirados (scrambled eggs and refried beans combined) or a dish called malaguena (two eggs over a red salsa Veracruz style with ham). 

Be sure to order a couple of fresh “Micha” rolls to go along with your breakfast.  And, enjoy the Marimba musicians who usually play outside the restaurant at various hours – even at breakfast. 

Gran Café de la Parroquia has been around for over 200 years and should not be missed when visiting Veracruz.  Be sure to bring some of the coffee home, as it is not available in other Mexican states. While not always on display, just ask your waiter for a “medio kilo” or a “kilo” (one or two pounds) of coffee, as they have it behind the counter.   

For a fast tour and orientation of Veracruz, I recommend the Tranvias bus tour, which  boards just across the street from the newly renovated Hotel Emporio on the malecon. The buses are open air double deckers. 

The tour lasts about 40 minutes and while the tour is in Spanish only, it still provides a fun way to get to know the city.  The same tour is also offered in the evening with strings of lights decorating the outside of the buses.

I spent several nights at the Hotel Emporio. It offers three pools and several restaurants, plus a terrace on the ninth floor – affording outstanding views of the city, along with a convenient location close to the heart of the city and the shops along the malecon.

Veracruz offers several historical sites including the zocalo, the cathedral and Fort San Juan de Ulua. The fort is undergoing restoration and is free to visitors until the restoration is complete.  The fort offers wonderful views of the city.

You can reach the fort by water taxi from the malecon, or a regular taxi will take you there as well.  There are also several boats in the same location offering tours of the harbor and circling the lighthouse.  

Veracruz can be hot and humid most times of the year.  I recommend visiting in October, November or December when this is a cool North wind blowing.  

I also recommend visiting the ancient ruins of El Tajin, about four hours north of the city of Veracruz.  Tours are available from Veracruz with English-speaking guides, or a guide can be hired at the ruins.  

Just outside the ruins are the amazing Papantlan flyers — ritualistic dancers who perform atop a 50-foot pole.  The dance begins with one of the members climbing the pole and dancing and playing a flute on top.  The other four members then climb up and, while tied to ropes, fall backward and begin the decent to the ground, “flying” around the pole. 

This pre-Hispanic period historical ceremony is performed whenever a sufficient number of tourists gather.  There are scheduled performances, and a fee is collected. 

Both the ruins and the Papantlan flyers are must see attractions when in the area.